The jazz age is recalled again through the first pre-collection of Pier Paolo Piccioli.
The Valentino woman wanders around New York streets surrounded by Billy Holiday’s notes, brocade fabrics and delicate, preciously made chemises. Just like a Webb’s composition, followed by Ellington’s sound at the Renaissance Ballroom. Valentino comes into the world again, rises and struggles against stereotypes. He himself a little bit Renaissance, too.
The environment is intimate, personal. In the background Nina Simone, ready to describe the American Dream. “They are jazz women”, states Pierpaolo Piccioli. Jazz just like the tales. Francis Scott Fitzgerald’s “Tales of the Jazz Age”, in all their refinement. The same refinement of floral prints, manufacturing, appliques on smocks, or of elegant painted snakes scattering bags and dresses, without “biting”. With sinuous elegance the “Jazz women” walk a tame and attractive catwalk, as if they are involved in the creation of their own Belle Époque, which can conceal the evil of the world through its favours.
Fitzgerald writes and denounces that world just next to those favours. It is so abundant with prestige to which he belongs as well, seeking already-written endings, aiming just at closing the loop.
Francis Scott Fitzgerald is a guarantee, in all of his novels. His writing is elegant and refined, no doubt apt to Valentino’s style, especially in this pre-collection depicting the roaring Twenties and Thirties. And what about you? Do you love those years? Please l
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(image of Valentino Pre-Fall 17/18 taken from Vogue.it)
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